Sunday, November 11, 2012

October 6-8, 2012, Gabe Zimmerman TH to Molina Basin TH (about 51 miles and 9,000 feet of climbing)

Yes, you read that right, 9,000 feet of climbing!!!  And this was just outside of Tucson.  Go figure.

This is another great example of how you never know what to expect on these AZT hikes.  This trip featured a dry water source, 3 rattlesnakes, a climb from hell on day two and then at the end a 1,000 foot climb only three miles from the end.  (At times I believe this trail has been laid out just to punish those that attempt to complete it).

Day one was a great stroll along the high desert outside of Tuscon.  It was warm, but I had my water sources planned well (I knew this hike had some water challenges buuuuut).  When I came to the campground that was supposed to have a reliable water source I soon found out how my trip might play out.  There was a boy scout group setting up camp for the weekend.  I asked one of the leaders where the water spigot was?  He then began to explain how the water line was broken and had not been fixed yet?  That was not good news to me.  Water was available about two miles back on the trail, or about half way through day two, neither of which sounded like viable options.

Luckily, the scouts had extra water and offered me enough to fill up.  Unfortunately I did not get to hydrate like I normally would, so this day was long and hot.

This is Hope Camp, just inside the Park Boundaries.  Camp is a misnomer, since they don't let you camp here even with a permit.  
This hike takes you through Saguaro National Park.  Great place, but they have camping permits for only select camp areas.  Logistically, its is 17+ miles through the park, it made planning this trip a bit of a challenge.  I stayed the first night just outside the park boundaries.

Start of the climb on Day 2
Day two was the climb from hell.  About 5,000 feet.  I told some friends that there were ants passing me on the trail.  Saw three rattlesnakes none of them too happy to see me.  The water situation was better than I expected though so that made for a little more enjoyable day.  You get to pass through Manning Camp a wonderful Forest Service set up at 8,000 feet.  You can camp here with a permit, but for me it would have made for a very long day three hike. I stopped here to fill water and eat an early dinner, then hiked a few more miles before stopping.

This was one of the campgrounds "Grass Shack"  If you want remote camping this is your spot

These two photos are from Manning Camp.  Forest Service folks stay here when they are working in the area.  There are canvass huts in the back that hikers can use.  I think the shortest hike in to here is about 10 or 12 miles, so not like your typical Holiday Inn.  


This is what happens when you don't pay enough attention to your GPS.  I hiked about a quarter of a mile extra uphill to get this photo.  I'm still a slow learner.  
Day three was downhill and then rolling trail until the end.  The last climb was a bit**.  And only three miles from the end of the hike.  Mentally and physically challenging.  At one point I thought I'd just lay off the side of the trail and hope someone would come along some day and find me!!!!
August 30-September 2nd, 2012  Snowbowl (Flagstaff) to the south rim Grand Canyon (about 90 miles, mostly downhill and flat)

After my first 4 day hike in 2011 I said I would never do that again.  Well I'm still a slow learner.  I actually planned this as a five day hike, but finished in 4.  I originally thought this would be a 3 day hike and a 2 day hike.  When I went out to stash water I changed my plans because of the logistics of getting in to the trail about halfway was just a nightmare.

View of the Peaks as I headed north
I had talked with a friend of mine who had done the complete trail in the spring.  He said that if you usually do 15 miles in a day on this segment you will do at least 20.  So with that in mind I planned for 5, but thought  I  might be done in 4.

I did finish in 4, but it took me a month to recover:)  This segment was a lot of ranch roads (across the Babbitt ranches) and old two track roads.  One thing that I have learned is that for me, dirt roads are harder on my body than going up and down single track trails.  Of course on this trip it was just the shear mileage that took its toll.

As I plan for the remainder of the trail it looks like I may end up doing one or two more 4 day hikes, just do to logistics.

This hike was great, filled with open views mostly great weather and an end view of the Grand Canyon.

View of the Canyon at the end
It rained every afternoon, a few times heavy, but usually very short.  The big surprise was on the morning of day 4 it started raining about 4 am.  And it didn't stop until about 11 am.  So I had to pack up and hike the first part of day 4 in the rain.  That was a new experience.


You can call me the "horse whisperer" These horses were in a field I walked through.  I was headed towards a gate and as soon as they noticed that they started to follow me.  As I went through the gate they got within about two feet of me.  

One of the original AZT markers.  There were several of these still standing on this segment.  

This was my lunch spot on day three.  There are no restaurants with views like this!!!!

Other than the views and the scenery, this trip will be remembered for the after hike affects.  First, I was sore in spots for a good four weeks later, it may have been flat, but it was still 20+ miles a day for four days.  Second, on day 4 I either got bit by something, or rubbed against something on my left elbow.  I got some kind of infection and had to get a shot and 10 days of antibiotic.  Caitlen said it looked like I had three elbows. sorry, I didn't get photos of the elbow:(
March 31 & April 1st  Florence/Kelvin Hwy TH to Picket Post Trailhead (about 40 miles, 6,000 feet of climbing)

This hike was one of the most stunning desert segments that I have done so far.  This newly completed segment runs along the Gila River, then makes a right turn and goes through some of the most spectacular desert canyon you can imagine.

Day one was the easier of the two days, mostly flat along the Gila River. It was a little warm that day (low 90's) so even though it was early, I decided to camp by the Gila before the trail heads north. The weather report said that it was going to cool down to the low 80's on the second day.   That was a good decision (see I am learning a little).


The second day starts with a 10 mile climb, great way to start the day!!!!  About half way up I ran into a Gila Monster.  He would not get out of the trail.  What you can't see from the picture is that this portion of the trail is on a severe hillside.  There were not a lot of options to get around him.  I had to climb up the slope and hope I didn't slip and fall since it would have been a few hundred feet down to the bottom of the canyon before I stopped.

I can't describe fully the spectacular scenery on this segment.  It is truly a wonder and a part of Arizona that most will never see.

View of the Gila River from the trail

Start of the climb on day two
I did cross paths with a man who was doing the trail as a through hike (all at one time).  His pack was huge and looked very heavy.  We talked for a while and he seemed to be enjoying himself.  I asked him if he was going to stay at a hotel in Superior (many through hikers will stay a night or two there to break up the trip).  He said, "no, I'm going all the way through with just what's on my back".  I'm truly amazed at these folks.  I've pretty much figured my limit is 4 nights and that is about as much tent sleeping as I can handle.  Maybe that will change by the end, but I doubt it.
March 14, 2012  Mt Elden, San Francisco Peaks (about 20 miles, 3500 feet of climb)

This hike started in east Flagstaff at Hwy 89 and goes up through the Peaks and I ended at the Snowbowl.  It has been a mild winter and there didn't appear to be a lot of snow, boy was I wrong.  Some of the trail sections on the north faces I was walking in 2 to 3 foot snow drifts.  I probably did about 3 miles total in snow like this, "post holing" up to my waist.  The sections where there wasn't any snow you could tell there hadn't been anyone on the trail since the fall.  (That shows that maybe I was a bit early doing this hike, duh)

For a one day hike, this was another tough one, seems like they all are.  The views were amazing though.  I'd love to do this hike again, only in the summer when there is no snow.

Saturday, November 10, 2012

August 31-September 3, 2011 Pine TH to Allan Lake (about 60 miles, 6,000 feet of climbing)

I call this trip the Blister, gate and sign trip.

First, I had the worst blisters I have ever had on day two, made for a long day three and four.  Second, I had at least 15 cowboy gates to go through.  Do you know how hard these are at the end of a long day?  And lastly it was about signs, missed signs.

This was my first four day hike and it was a workout.  The first day I sweat so much there wasn't a dry spot on me.  When I stopped to set up camp, I put a dry shirt on and was setting up camp in my undies while everything else dried out.  (I know, TMI)

I walked by at least three signs with turn arrows, extending my hike by a couple of miles.  Even with the best technology, if you don't look up and you don't look at the GPS, you can still end up in the wrong place.


This is a wash crossing on the HighLine trail.   Look at the size of the trees that have been piled up.  Good thing it wasn't raining.


This was the start of a rail tunnel they planned through the mountain above the East Verde River.  A lot of work for something that never materialized.  

Remind me how do you miss a sign like this??

My planning on this hike was a little better, I had a couple of water stashes and the water availability was pretty good.  I still ended the hike a bit dehydrated as Eric and Allison can attest to.

This was my first hike that I ran into another hiker doing the AZT.  Of course he passed me like I was standing still.
April 1-3, 2011 Picket Post TH to Lake Roosevelt (about 48 miles)

Remember I said earlier the desert has a lot of "up".  This hike was another classic example, I believe I ended the hike with over 7,000 feet of climbing.

This hike takes you through the middle of the Superstition Wilderness.  Fantastic scenery.  Only saw three other hikers over the three day period which equals the number of rattlesnakes I saw.  Day One was a hike over Montana Mountain, but I camped at the Rogers Trough TH, where I had stashed water( see I'm starting to learn).

The second day takes you through Reavis Ranch.  Why would someone build a ranch out here?  Beautiful area and there are still some of the old apple trees around.  If you hike here in the fall, you can take some home with you.

I intended to make day two a shorter day, but changed my mind when I got to my expected stopping point about 1:00.  I still felt good and it was only another 6 miles or so to the next available camping areas.  (note this part of the hike is in a series of rocky canyons and ridges, not very friendly for setting up a tent).  That decision didn't turn out quite like I expected.  Instead of 21/2 to 3 hours it was more like 5.  Up and down, up and down.  I finished the day about 6:30 which made for a 12 hour hiking day.  Set up camp in the dark, ate dinner and went to bed.

Then the fun started.  I was on a high point, overlooking Roosevelt Lake.  The wind started blowing early that evening and kept getting worse.  About 11:30, it almost blew me and the tent all the way to the lake.  I had to get up and re-position the tent and then try to get back to sleep.  And, both my and all my stuff took home a couple of pounds of dust.

I've never seen so many Ocotillos in one place before.  It was an Ocotillo Forest!!!

 Home sweet home on night one, Rogers Trough TH.


This was the view from my campsite on the morning of day three.  This was after I almost got blown into the lake the night before.

Thanks to Lillian and Dain for picking me up and especially for Lillian taking me for mexican food in Miami.
March 13, 2011  Walnut Canyon segment (24 miles)

When I did the last segment in the fall of 2010, I took the re-supply route into Flagstaff.  I still needed to complete this segment, Walnut Canyon, which goes around Flagstaff to the east and then heads into the Peaks.

I didn't do too much prep for this hike, I just knew I needed to complete it.  It was a bit cold to start (29 degrees) and I thought I remembered that it was about 16 miles.  Ooooops!!!! The first part of the hike is 16 miles, I forgot about the last part which was another 8 miles.  Again, I'm a slow learner.

Even though it was a long day, it was very enjoyable.  The weather warmed up and made for great hiking.  The view of the peaks were tremendous.  I saw mountain lion and bear tracks in the trail, luckily they weren't fresh.

In my journal, I wrote "I can't wait to do the rest of the hike through the peaks".  Remember this statement when you read about that hike!!!


Friday, November 9, 2012

September 2-4 2010  Allen Lake Crossing of Hwy 3 to Flagstaff  (about 50 miles)

So now on my trip I'm beginning to learn a few things, at least I thought I was.  Got a lighter backpack, got a GPS (but forgot to write down mileage at the end).  This definitely made the trip nicer.  There were still evidence that I'm a slow learner, I still had water issues and blister issues.

The scenery was great on day one and day three, not so much on day two.  The day two hike was up on the mesa above Lake Mary, totally exposed to the sun.  It was a long day, hot for that area 80+,  and I thought there was water at Marshall Lake and there wasn't (unless I hiked several miles out of my way).

Because of some logging close to Mormon Lake, the trail was re-routed through Mormon Lake Village.  I ran into Larry Snead and Jan Hancock and they bought me lunch, which is way better than a power bar or freeze dried dinner.  Larry and Jan are two of the original volunteers that started the Arizona Trail Association.  Larry was actually the person who first got me involved as a trail steward and first asked me to sit on the board.  I consider both of them good friends and it couldn't have made for a better lunch.

Mormon Lake flowers, they were everywhere


 This was on day one.  This is part of an old bridge for the railroad that used to go to Flagstaff.

 Day two, looking down at Lake Mary



The first night I went to sleep listening to elk bugle calls.  Very cool at first, but it lasted all night long so it made for a difficult time to sleep.   I also saw the biggest beehive I've ever seen.  Right next to the trail in a 15 foot tall tree stump.  I hustled by that as quick as I could.  The volume of the buzzing was unbelievable.
March 13-15 2010  Pinal County, Tiger Mine Rd TH to the Florence/Kelvin Hwy TH (about 55 miles)

This is really the beginning of my AZT adventure.  A little insight.  Other than a few hikes in the Grand Canyon over the years, the majority of the hikes I had done were day hikes.  This trip starts a pretty steep learning curve for me on backpacking in remote settings and by myself.  As I outline some of my trips you will notice I'm not the quickest learner.  I am getting better though, but I'm still a slow learner.

The one common theme in all my trips is that there is always something unexpected, sometimes several of them.

I love this part of Pinal County and this hike was particularly enjoyable because I got to hike on many portions of the trail that Jarred, Erin, Caitlen and I got to build.  Looking back on this hike it highlighted many of the challenges to come, water management, route finding, isolation ( I only saw three people in the three days), weather changes, blisters.

Memories that stand out from this hike were:
1)  Water management is critical, I didn't plan too well on day one and had a long dry morning hike to get to where I had water stashed.
2)  GPS technology is a good thing.  I didn't have a gps, I lost the trail on the third day and had to bushwack for a few miles to get back to the trail.
3)  What is really important to pack and what is not.  I carried too much on this trip.  I now have a better idea of what I can live without, although there are certain things I won't hike without, tent, sleeping bag, pillow.  I keep trying to get it lighter, but then I find myself packing something I just have to have.



 This is the section called the "Boulders"  There were many boulder outcroppings just like this one.


This is called the "big hill".  If you think the desert is flat, this is just one of many hills I will encounter in the desert.  This one is kind of like the Grand Canyon, switchback after switchback.  Lot's of four letter words flying, nobody there to listen or care.
Memorial Day, 2009

This is the first segment of the Arizona National Scenic Trail that I counted towards my goal.  The funny thing is it is almost one year prior to really starting my journey.  Jarred and I decided to do rim to rim of the Grand Canyon.  Luckily for me this is part of the AZT.  And since we were crazy enough to do it all in one day, I'm definitely counting it in my total.
I had always wanted to do rim to rim and Jarred and I actually planned on doing rim to rim, staying over on the north side for two nights and then hiking back, rim to rim.  That didn't work out to well (we wimped out and caught a shuttle back to the south rim).

Things that stood out on this trip were:

  • I shouldn't have waited until I was 50 to do it for the first time
  • Jarred should have trained (he just thought it was any old 20 mile hike)
  • The north rim is stunning, way better than the south rim
 This was Jarred and I when we still felt pretty good.  Notice the difference in the last photo




This was Jarred at the end, almost.  I forgot to tell him that we still had about a mile to hike to the cabins!!!


All in all, this was a great way to begin the AZT journey.  Funny though, I haven't been able to get Jarred back with me yet.  
My first post is just a big thank you to all of you for your help, support and encouragement as I complete this journey.  This trip wouldn't be as enjoyable without being able to share it with all of you.

I have been involved with the Arizona Trail for almost 15 years now.  It has truly been an amazing experience. I have met many wonderful people during this time, many who are now lifetime friends.  I take great pride in the fact that the work I have done is creating a lifetime memory for me while providing something that will benefit generations to come.

You can learn more about the Arizona Trail by visiting the website.

I must admit though, that I am a bit leery of sharing.  Most of you think I'm crazy for doing this and when you read some of the details, it will further confirm your outlook of my mental capacity.  Enjoy.