AZT in a Day 2019

It has been a while since I posted here, life gets in the way!  This by no means is my first AZT adventure since completing the trail in 2014, but I thought it would be a good occasion to share. 

Starting my ride, early and happy!

I've been wanting to ride my mountain bike across the Pinal County segments of the trail for some time.  Some friends and I did the Picketpost to Gila ride several year ago.  So I signed up for AZT in at day with the thought of doing 60 miles, from Oracle to the Gila River.  I knew that this was going to be a really tough challenge, so I built in an out at the half way point, Freeman Road.  Good thing to, because by the time I got there I was done for the day. 

It turned out to be a 5 hour ride, instead of the 4  hours I planned.  While I had plenty of day left for the remaining 30 miles, my mind and body made the smart decision to stop at the halfway point.  I'll tackle the next 30 miles on another trip. 

It was fun, it was hard and like all my AZT hikes and ride it was stunningly beautiful!! 

Antelope Peak, my destination.  This teased me all day long.  

My good friends Lillian and Dain were there to provide logistical help, they moved my truck from Oracle to Freeman Road, yea.  They got to do a hike on the AZT while waiting for me, although longer than what they planned since I was a bit slower than anticipated. 

The AZT in a Day event is pretty cool, get the entire trail completed in one day, lots of folks out enjoying this tremendous resource.  And while I was able to raise a little money for the Arizona Trail Association, the reasons for my ride were a bit more personal. 

Stunning views looking south from the AZT

Our family has had a rough year, our middle child Erin passed away in May.  Her loss was truly unexpected and has been difficult and challenging to deal with.  And while we continue to struggle with her passing, we also are focused on her two children.  Lyanne is 9 and has been living with Victoria and I for some time now.  Lyanne misses her mom, and Victoria and I (and the rest of our wonderful family)  are doing our best to help her through this very trying and emotional time.  Jax is almost 2 now, and for the time being is also living with us.   

So, as you can imagine (or maybe not), the past few months have been a blur.  So when I signed up to do this ride, I had another motive, providing me some time to think, to talk with Erin (I usually talk to myself, this was much better), to remember all the good things about her.  I truly miss her, but I really felt her on this ride (thanks for the tailwind, I needed every bit of it). 

I'm hopeful that I will be able to continue to share my love of the AZT with Lyanne and Jax.  I know that during these future adventures, Erin will be there with us, encouraging us and maybe providing that much needed tailwind.  I love you Erin, I miss you, Love Dad. 

May 31-June 3rd North Rim of the Grand Canyon to Utah State Line (79.4 miles and 7730 feet of climbing)

All I can say is Wow!!!  What an amazing journey!  I'm still pinching myself to be sure that I'm awake, I completed the Arizona National Scenic Trail.  I walked the entire distance across Arizona, and it was an breathtaking experience.  This was the single most difficult thing I have attempted, but one with more rewards than one could ever imagine.  It was definitely worth the effort.  

Eric at the beginning of the hike.  It looks
like he is smiling,
but really his teeth are chattering!!!

I had saved these last few passages of the AZT so that I could finish at the Arizona/Utah border.  I also convinced my brother-in-law Eric to join me.  After this trip, I may never get Eric to go anywhere more exciting than a brewery with me:)  As with most of the trips I took along the AZT, this one presented several obstacles to overcome. Our first obstacle was a flat tire on one of our vehicles as we were dropping off one vehicles at the Stateline Trailhead.  That's a fifteen mile drive back towards civilization in a vehicle with no spare.  I was really hoping that was the biggest of the issues we had to overcome.   (See the footnotes below for a description of the biggest challenge we faced on this journey.)

Our trip began at the north rim of the Grand Canyon.  It was the last day of May and we expected cool weather, we didn't expect the low thirites!!!!  Our drive down to the trailhead was filled with deer sightings (at least 100) and bison, and we hadn't even started our hike. 

Here is the trail corridor leading from the North Rim.  

We had planned for a 5 day hike, but thought we might be able to shorten that to 4 days, depending on terrain, altitude and other trail challenges.  We made it about 20 miles the first day and camped near Dog Lake, still on schedule for four days, but still not sure if that was possible.  I'm not sure who names these things, but my view of a lake is a water source much bigger than Dog Lake??   I've attached some photos of the forest we hiked through, this is the thickest forest I have ever seen.  I would hate to be lost in that stuff, you may never find your way out.

Dog Lake???  Really!!!  A Lake!!!

Funny moment from Day One, I'm leading the way at the end of the day, almost to our camp spot.  I'm paying attention to the trail in front of me, we had been walking and stepping over downed trees all day.  I was in a zone, trying to get to our camp spot and forgot to look up.  Unfortunately for me there was a downed tree across the trail about forehead high.  I never saw it coming, ran right into it.  Luckily for me I missed the protruding sharp edge of a broken branch and only left with a slight headache.  

Day two turned out to be much tougher (there is always one day that is like this)  The trail was more challenging as we walked through a large burn area north of the canyon north rim.  The temperature was great, but at almost 9,000 the sun was awful close, and we felt it at the end of the day.  We started early and still didn't finish until almost 5:00.

Day three started out better, we were still on pace for a four day hike.  Eric said he was having fun, but I think he was still questioning the validity of drinking water from ponds, tanks and other assorted water sources.  This was his first experience with filtering and drinking odd water sources. Having been through this discussion with myself before, I completely understand.   

This was the canyon we walked out of the last day of the hike.
I mentioned to Eric that it reminded me of all the
old cowboy movies, exactly where
the cowboys get ambushed.
We spent a lot of time looking around after that.  

We made the decision to get an early start on Day 4, just in case we ran into hot weather on our hike out of the high forest and down into the high desert.  We started the last day at 4:30 am and had a great first ten miles. The rest of the hike was downhill to the trailhead, a little warm, but much better than we had expected.  Of course we had to have the celebratory beer when we got done.  Even though it had been in the car for five days, it was one of the better beers I've had in a long time.  

This was an amazing end to the trail trip and I'm thankful I was able to share the experience with Eric.  

A lot of folks have asked what I'm going to do next??  I really haven't thought that far ahead.  For the time being I'm going to reminisce about the trip and the wonderful experience it has been.  After my feet and knees forgive me I will give some thought to what is next!!!                               

The view looking east towards the beginning of the Grand Canyon.

Kent's Tent

Eric's Tent??  

The view into Utah as the hike finished.  The view was fantastic.  

One very happy and tired hiker!!

Footnote One:  I can't begin to express my sincere thanks to everyone who made this trip possible.  My family, my friends and my trail partners.  I could not have done this without all of their support.  Last, but certainly not least, my heartfelt thanks to Dale Shewalter, who was the inspiration for this trail.  He was a great person and is truly missed.  But everyone who experiences the Arizona Trail, takes a piece of Dale home with them.  There is no better reward than that.

Footnote Two:  I know that Eric would not want me to spend too much time talking about this, so that is why is is a footnote.  Eric started experiencing some really bad foot pain early in our hike.  I think I would have called it quits right then, not Eric.  He hung in there through the whole 80 miles and never complained, even when I led us the wrong direction a couple of times.  

Foonote Three:  I wasn't sure how I wanted to address this item.  Over the course of my AZT hike I have never experienced this before.  We had properly planned for our hike and had dropped water in several key areas.  Our water was labeled with names and dates, but someone who obviously didn't plan their hike as well , stole a gallon of water from two of our water drop locations.  We were fortunate that we had adequately planned and could adjust our hike accordingly.  While the outcome of our hike was positive, it certainly could have turned out differently.  I am still in disbelief that a AZT hiker would do this and certainly know that this person is not the norm.  Someday whoever did this will receive their due.     

March 21-23, 2014 Mt. Peeley to Twin Buttes 48.5 miles and 8,400 feet of climbing. 

Wow, what a fantastic trip this was.  Although, many of my family and friends may disagree, I will get to that later. This is a unique segment of the Arizona Trail.  Almost the entire 48 miles is within designated Wilderness areas.  This was the one thing that gave me the most concern as I was planning this trip.  With limited access points to the trail, I was not able to drop any extra water.  Given the very dry year we have had water availability was one of my biggest fears during the planning stages. 

Luckily, there was water where there was supposed to be and it worked perfectly with the spots I had planned to camp.  If you've read any of my previous posts, you know that this almost never happens. 

And on this trip, I didn't take any wrong turns, misread any maps or gps units, miss any signs or markers. Again, this almost never happens on my hikes!!! More importantly, the scenery and the trail were a true Arizona wonder.  The photos I took are great, but really don't do justice to the true beauty. 

Unexpectedly, I ran into three other hikers on this trip.  Actually two hikers and one great AZT volunteer.  Given the remoteness of the area, that was a bit of a shock. 

I planned my first night stay in a spot that was close to a spring.  The camp site was listed as about a quarter of a mile off the trail.  This is usually a bit further than I like to go as I'm pretty lazy out on the trail, not wanting to go much further than I actually have to.  In this instance, I made the right choice.  This camp spot looked like something that was used by equestrians and possibly Forest Service personnel at some point.  It was a great oak tree shaded area with great tent spots, a camp table and great views.  I've got some photos posted here, for a night on the trail it was almost like staying at the Hilton. 

My day two camp site was another regular camp spot for wilderness hikers and horseback riders.  Not quite as nice as night one, but still better than many spots I've spread out in. 

This trip was another trip through areas where there have been forest fires in the not too distant past.  The devastation is something that is hard to comprehend.  One can only wonder how much more beautiful this area was before the fire destruction. 

On my AZT journey, there is always something that offers a mental and physical challenge.  It happens on day trips and multi-day trips.  On this trip it was the last 11+ miles on White Rock Mesa.  While the climbs were challenging, they weren't the worst I've encountered.  What was challenging on this segment was the trail, or lack there of.  Most of the 11+ miles the trail tread was invisible.  Navigation was done by "cairns".  I've attached some photos for you to test yourself.  See if you can pick out the "cairn".  If you can, you are ready to come out on the trail.  If not, you better stick to the sidewalks!!  And if you have to ask, "what is a cairn?"  Better that you stay inside.

Last, but certainly not least on this trip was the excitement going on behind the scenes.  Given the fact that my trip had gone along without any real adversity, I should have known there was something else not working right.  That one thing was my SPOT locator.  Funny thing about technology, sometimes it doesn't work.  What I didn't know is that my SPOT message for Saturday (day two) did not make it out to my contact list.  So by Sunday some friend and family were expecting the worst (eaten by a bear, lost in the woods etc).  In the end, all was OK, although most in my family still think I'm a bit crazy for taking these "out in the middle of nowhere" trips.  This will be one of those funny family stories told and re-told for years to come.

If all works out like I have planned, the next post you will read will be the completion of this trip.  I'm really at a bit of a loss for words on that.  I'm amazed that it is almost over.  I'm humbled by the support of friends and family.  I have to pinch myself to understand that the journey is almost complete.  What am I going to do with all that free time?  The wheels are already starting to turn!!!!!!!!!!! 

The East Verde, a great spot for lunch!

Test #1, Where is the cairn?

Test #2, Where is the cairn?

Better than a cairn!!!

Test #3, Where is the cairn?

Saturday March 8, 2014 Hardscrabble Mesa (Twin Buttes to Pine) 12 Miles

What was better, the hike or the after hike stop at THAT Brewery in Pine?  I would guess that my hiking companions would vote for the Brewery!!!  Especially after Dain and I decided it wasn't necessary to look at our GPS until after we parked the car.  This necessitated an extra mile of hiking.  Another perfect example of technology only being as good as the user.

This 12 mile hike was an enjoyable Saturday hike and I was again joined by wonderful friends, Lillian, Dain, Debbie, Andrea and Ernie. 

The hike starts on a Forest Service Road, then heads down a powerline road before entering some really neat trails.  Great views, mostly a downhill hike (except for one challenging climb).  The week before this hike, Arizona had a really nice rainy weekend (the first real rain since December) which was showcased in creeks, streams and numerous cattle/wildlife tanks. 

 

This hike ends at the trailhead in Pine, right off the highway.  A great place to explore the Arizona Trail for a day hike.  Then after the hike, enjoy an Arizona Trail Ale at THAT Brewery in Pine.  Friends, food, adult beverages and an Arizona Trail hike. It really doesn't get much better than that!!! 


 

As dry as the State has been, it was a treat to be able to enjoy the sights
and sounds along a creek.  This isn's something we see
much of living in the desert.  



 

This is Lillian and Deb at the end of the hike right before
Lillian stole my beer!!  Guess we shouldn't have made them walk that extra mile. 

November 16, 2013  Sunflower to the Mt. Peeley TH.  (18.1 miles and about 4,500 feet of climbing)

Me, Ernie and Dain after the hike.  Guess who didn't
plan for the weather?  Whose sweatshirt is that Dain?

Another fantastic day on the Arizona Trail, including friends, some threatening fall weather and the usual trail challenges.  I was watching the weather report all week, as there was a storm due just prior to this planned hike.  My last check of the weather report indicated just a 30% chance of rain. Typically in Arizona, that means partly sunny with some lingering clouds.  Much to our surprise as we drove to the TH, menacing dark storm clouds were everywhere, with temps a bit lower than anticipated.  In fact, after being dropped off at Sunflower, my friendly hiking group were driving to the Mt. Pelley TH in fog and a mix of rain/sleet.

Cloudy and cool!!

Again, I have to thank the group of friends that I hike with.  They planned their hike around mine, dropping me off in Sunflower and then heading to the Mt. Peeley TH.  They planned to hike south on the trail and meet me along the trail as I headed north.  Little did we know that the toughest part of the trail was on their end.  I also thought I might have some company hiking the entire segment,  but once everyone saw the weather, those plans soon changed. They were the smart ones:)

I've been pretty fortunate on my journey, not encountering too much bad weather.  I did get rained on for about 30 minutes on this hike, but considering what it looked like it could have been a lot worse.  I did receive two pretty significant benefits of the weather though.  One the temperature was fantastic and secondly those big black clouds hanging on the mountains all day kept me moving pretty quickly all day long.  

Effects of the Fire!!!

The first twelve miles went by pretty quick.  This area was badly burned in the Sunflower fire.  Reports had said there had been some crews in last spring to clean up some parts of the trail and that was definitely the case on the first portions.  Many thanks to the crews who worked on this, without those efforts this trip would not have been possible.  It was amazing to see the destruction that a forest fire has up close and personal.  Not only the vegetation and landscape, but also to any trails in the area.  With no vegetation to slow runoff, trails become a prime target for water.  This high water volume destroys trails, leaving rocks, boulders, ravines, dead trees and other assorted challenges.  Add to that a burned out landscape, and route finding on these types of trails can be an adventure.  

The Arizona Trail Association just announced that these signs
were being added randomly along the trail.  Almost halfway between Mexico and Utah!!  

As I said the first thirteen miles went very smoothly, the last five not so much.  I stopped for lunch about 11:30 and sent a text to the others letting them know where I was at.  I envisioned seeing them pretty soon.  I should have known I was in for more of a challenge when Ernie sent a text back and asked "How's the trail?"

From that point on the trail was not only physically challenging, but mentally also.  The trail tread was extremely hard to find, trail markers were few and far between.  Many cairns were hidden by the new growth coming back since the fire.  Several times I had to retrace my steps or bushwack to get to the trail. This would account for my mileage total above, which should have been about 17 miles total, not 18.1!!!

You had to be there!!  I swear I never saw the acorns??

Old mine shaft next to a creek.  The pipe looked new, but the bucket looked old??

wildlife on the trail, literally

Happy to finish for the day.  I can smell the beer.  

 

The different colors in the rock in this wash was amazing

In the end though it was another amazing day on the Arizona Trail, even more so with the challenges and friends to share the experience with.  

October 26-28th, 2013 Frazier TH to Sunflower (45 miles and 10,000 feet of climbing)

Why so serious??  Maybe I knew what was ahead of me!!

This trip is filled with family history, friends, lots of bear poo and the humbling reality of a really long first day.  I started this trip at the Frazier Trailhead, adjacent to Roosevelt Lake.  This trailhead offers a short 1+ mile link to the AZ Trail.  The Fraizer TH is named after my great grandparents T.T. Frazier and Stella Frazier.  They were early Arizona pioneers in the Roosevelt area arriving several years before construction of the dam. They operated the Frazier General Store there for decades.  I remember visiting the store when I was little.

Being able to link my Arizona Trail hike to family history is a wonderful benefit to my journey.   The Arizona Trail is special that way, linking not only the many geographical wonders of the state, but also linking it's historical past.  Another great reason to get out and enjoy any or all of the Arizona Trail.

Dain, Lillian, Janice, Karen, Nate and Dave.
They are smiling because they are on the way
to Mexican food!!

My first day started out well, great weather and friends to join me for the first part of the day.  Actually they did the smart thing, they hiked the first 5 miles with me to the highway bridge crossing the lake, then they took the highway back to the trailhead (which was shorter).  This enabled them to get to the mexican food and adult beverages sooner.  Later in the day I was really wishing that I had joined them.  (and from the stories
I hear, it was quite the lunch!!!!)

The day was a little warm, and after the bridge is a lot of climbing.  In addition to that it was just one of those days that I just didn't have my "A" game.  In fact I don't think I had my "C" game.  That made for a very long uphill afternoon.  Needless to say I stopped my day earlier than anticipated knowing that I had a lot more climbing ahead of me the next day.

The trail crosses the bridge. You can see part of the trail on the
other side as it climbs the hill

Setting up camp the first night I noticed my first bear poo of the hike.  I was camping by a dry stream, the droppings were old (luckily) so I wasn't too concerned.  Little did I know that this would be just the first of many bear poo encounters over the next two days.

So, not sure what bear poo looks like.  Click here Bear poo  for more information than you probably wanted to know.

The second day started with some more climbing, but I was feeling better.  One of the neat things about this hike was the fact that for most of the hike you have some spectacular views of Roosevelt Lake and the Verde River valley.  It is also a narrow trail on a really steep sideslope.  These types of trail are really neat to hike, except when you start thinking about what other things might be on the trail.

This segment of trail had more bear poo than I have seen in all my hikes put together.  Not a real comforting thought when you consider there aren't too many options of where to go.  Now I knew that this late in the season seeing a bear was not too likely, but when you are alone and only talking to yourself, that knowledge is not as clear.  In the end, I never saw a bear, but I also didn't sleep as well at night as I might have otherwise.

Sycamore Creek

The last day of the hike was along a long Forest Service road and then turned to the west ending along Sycamore Creek.  The fall colors were pretty spectacular and the pictures I'm posting really don't do it justice.  (It was windy and a bit dusty by the time I took these photos)

In the end, a great hike, enjoyed with good friends, and some amazing family history.  I now have about 155 miles remaining on my journey.  I'm sure they will be a challenge, but I'm already starting to wonder what comes next??






Below are some of the other sights from the trip, enjoy

This is a photo on the downriver side of Roosevelt Dam

Four Peaks Wilderness

More Fall Color!!

I wonder if the guys from "Fast and Loud" will give
me a finders fee for these??